ARTSAKH HISTORICAL MONUMENTS

Karvajar 309 Monuments

NKR (Country) / Karvajar (District)

Geographical Environment

Total area of the district is 1936 sq. km., 1400 of which (the basin of Great and Small Al Lakes) was taken from Soviet Armenia and annexed to Azerbaijan as late as in 1923. It borders with Martakert (east) and Kashatagh districts of the NKR (south); Vardenis, Vayk and Sisian Districts of the Republic of Armenia (west and southwest) and Dashkesan and Khanlar Districts of Azerbaijan (north).

The area of Large and small Al lakes was taken from Armenia and given to Azerbaijan by the decision of the Land and Woods Disputes Settlement Commission by the Transcaucasian central Executive Committee, dated Feb. 2,1923, later (on Feb. 18,1923) confirmed by the decision of the Board of the Transcaucasian Central Executive Committee. Pursuant to it "it was resolved to take from Armenia the Alagol lakes and the adjoining pastures, occupying the area of 2000 desyatin, and give them to the Kurdistan district, i. e. to Azerbaijan." (R. Grigorian, Occupation of the By-Frontier Territory of Armenia by Azerbaijan in 1920-1923, "Areresum" 1996, # 16, p. 6 (in Arm.).
Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 9.

Mountain Ranges. The entire area of the district is mountainous and rugged, with numerous high peaks (altitude: Gamish - 3724 m.; Spitakkar - 3300.4 m; Qongur - 3043.2 m; Itsakar - 3125.8 m; Tsamaqasar (Sususzlugh) - 2845 m; Pahak - 2018.3 m; Kochler -2525.0 m.; Lachin - 2261 m.; Qety - 3399 m.; Erkatasar - 2900.9 m, etc.). The highest mountain ranges such as Mrav in the north, Rmbostyan - in the west and Tsavdeits - in the south extend along the borderline of the district.

Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 9.

Mountain Passes. Except for the eastern border the district is surrounded by high mountains serving natural watersheds. Communication with the neighboring regions is provided by a number of mountain passes. Three of them: such as Zngrli (altitude 2885 m), Omar (3261 m) and Ghamish (3505) pass through the highest mountain range of Mrav. Other three passes: Rmbostyan or Sodk (altitude 2400 m), Norabak (2600 m) and Upper Shorzha-Zaylik (2751) go through the Vardenis or Rmbostyan mountain range, limiting the district from the west. Finally two main passes Naghdal-Takhtabash (altitude 2045), Lalabaghrli-Ghazikhan (2215) and a few subsidiary passes, which are much more difficult of access, cross the range of Tsavdeits. The villages within Karvajar are also connected by a number of mountain passes, most important of which are those leading to the valleys of Khachen and Aragjur rivers (Kechilu-Aghjakand - altitude 2180 m. and Otakhlar-Mijman).

Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, pp. 9-10.

The Rivers. As an alpine zone Karvajar naturally abounds in rivers and streams and serves a water samp for one of the major Armenian rivers - the Trtu (Tartar). Hundreds of streams flowing out of the alpine springs feed the three main rivers of the region – the Trtu (Tartar), Lev and Dukhtu. None of these rivers or their tributaries do dry out during the whole year, though the water is especially high in spring and in the beginning of summer, when the snow melts. Devastating seasonal floods deluging the valleys and washing away bridges and communications are quite usual. That is why only the pylons are often left of the numerous medieval bridges built over the rivers and streams.

Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 10.

Lakes. The largest of several alpine lakes (most of them -of volcanic origin) are Great and Small Al (Alagol), Gortagarak (Ghanligol), Sev (Gharagol) and Zalkha. As a rule they are situated on the altitude over 2000 m. above the sea (altitude: Great Al - 2729 m. and Small Al - 2739, Gortagarak - 2056 m., Zalkha - 3062 m). Majority of the lakes are close water samps fed by the nearby streams, though Zalkha and Gortagarak feed respectively the Vorotan and Iritsajur rivers.

Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 10.

Waterfalls. Karvajar is a humid alpine zone with a number of not too high waterfalls situated mainly on smaller tributaries. Such are, for instance the waterfall on the Lakzu River, at the edge of Gharaguney village (altitude - 5 m.), or waterfalls on the left (8 m.) and right (5 m.) tributaries of the Lev, both of them are 2-2.5 km northwest of the Lev village, a waterfall of Ekhtsajur (3 m) situated about 0.5 km of the village Goydara, etc.

Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 10.

Forests. In spite of its indebtedness, 28.2 thousand ha of the total area of the district is covered with woods. The latter extend mainly along the valleys of the Trtu and Dotkhu rivers, and in the adjoining sub-alpine zones. Prevalent within plant species is the oak, more rare are fir trees, or wild fruit trees.

Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 10.

Fields and Meadows. Alpine meadows, situated on the altitude of 2000- 2800-m. above the sea cover most of the territory. Virtually there are no fields in the lower zones. Most frequent in this zone are stock-breeding farms and complexes.

Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 10.

Mineral Springs. As testified by a number of medieval sources, the medicinal properties of the Karvajar mineral springs were recognized long ago. As a rule, cold and hot mineral springs spurting out with remarkable regularity in the valleys or deep gorges, are situated not too far from the major riverbanks. Such are, for example, cold mineral springs in 1 km northwest of the village Kholozants, at the right bank of the Trtu, and the springs spurting out at both banks of the Trtu 2 km further to the northeast of the same village; or two cold springs in the edge of Karvajar (village of Boyakhli), at the right bank of the Trtu, or cold springs in 2.7 km southeast of the same village; another spring at the left bank of river Datikh; a cold spring situated 3 km south of the village Zilfugharli, at the left bank of the Dutkhu river; hot and cold springs in the southern side of the Jermajur (Istisu) resort; a cold spring in Ghalafalgh village; or cold springs situated 2.5 km west of Apahen or Tpel (Bashlibel) village.

Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 10.

Roads. The roads of Karvajar district pass mainly through the valleys sometimes crossing the mountain passes. As a rule, the existing and comparatively well maintained roads were in use since at least the Middle Ages, though under the Soviet rule they were sometimes widened, or paved (as, for example, the section of Jermajur-Khutavan). It is worth mentioning that being out of use for 1-2 years comparatively new countryside roads are almost totally destroyed, while the roads built in the medieval period (for instance, Tzar-Karvajar, or Kilisali-Ghushyuvasi) are still fit for use. Still preserved is one of the oldest transit routs connecting the medieval Armenian capital Dvin with the town of Partav, which passed through the basin of Lake Sevan, and crossed Karvajar in the section of the Lev river gorge.

Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, pp. 10-11.

Historical Introduction

As far as we may judge from the available cuneiform sources the territory of Karvajar had once been included into the Van Kingdom. It should be also born in mind that Karvajar was one of the first in Eastern Armenia, to adopt the ideas of Christianity (it is traditionally assumed that the monastery of St Dad (hereinafter referred to as Dadi Vank), recorded as Episcopal See since the V cent, was founded at the end of the I cent. AD on the grave of Christian martyr Dadi - one of the 70 disciples of Apostle Thaddeus). In the V-VI cent. Karvajar was included into Caucasian Albania, which at the time being was a Persian province (marzpanutyun). Later, in conformity with “Ashkharatsuyts”, dating back to the VII cent., this district was included into the historical province of Artsakh as one of its twelve regions and was called Vaykunik. Since the middle of the VII cent, and up to the end of the VIII cent, the district, as well as other parts of Artsakh were under the Arab rule.

Michael Asori, Chronicle, Jerusalem, 1871, Annex, p. 33 (in Arm.).
Anania Shirakatsi, Matenagrutyun, Yerevan, 1979, p. 295 (in Arm.).
Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 11.

9 c․

The beginning of the IX cent, was marked by the establishment of a strong local Armenian dynasty of Aranshahik. Since that time princes of this dynasty took the most active part in the struggle against the Arab rule, strengthening or building new fortifications and strongholds.

Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 11.

The representatives of Vaykunik-Tzar dynasty were closely related to Zaqarian princes -amirspasalars (particularly, Dop, the sister of princes Zakareh and Ivane, was married with a local dynasty Hassan) who patronized and protected the province up to the Mongol invasion.

G. Hovsepian, The Khaghbakians or the Proshians in Armenian History, Vagharshapat, 1928, p. 19-20 (in Arm.).
Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 11.

12 — 13 cc․

The boundaries of Tzar (or Upper Khachen) principality extended considerably in the XII-XIII cent., apparently because the dowry of princess Dop, donated by Prince Ivane Zakarian included estates, which extended along the entire southern cost of lake Sevan - from Sodk to Shoghvaga. In the east the principality reached Akanaberd. The Dopian principality succeeded to remain within these frontiers till the beginning of the XIV cent. However, colophon of the New Testament copied in 1312 at Targmanchats Monastery of Khachakap, outlined the boundaries as follows: “Grigor, prince of Armenia, the lord and master of Small Syunik, Handaberd and Akan, and the alpine sea of Guegham, from Sot to Shoghvaga, and our provinces consist namely of: Main Sot, and Berdadzor and Jokhants, Haskabaka, Atrenis, Kaler, Uriadzor and Khoruaget, Dvanots and other estates within the province, left by our ancestors, to the homeland with its four frontiers...” The Dopian dynasty bore significant losses during the invasion of Tamerlane in 1387. The population of Tzar region had been almost totally massacred, Prince Hassan and his wife Khondza, and their sons “brave and courageous masters” Grigor, Sargis, Shanshe, Jhanshe, Ajbugha and Shrvan took martyr death. Nevertheless, the Dopian principality managed to sustain its existence till the beginning of the XVIII cent. Throughout all that period the Turkish and Tatar tribes that had already penetrated into some of East Armenian provinces, were not only denied access to Tzar, but being a strong province with reliable defense Tzar served a safe shelter for numerous Armenian refugees displaced as a consequence of war between Iran and Turkey. Thus in 1552, many Armenians that fled from Western Armenia as a result of devastating campaign led by Shah Tammaz, found refuge “in the God blessed stronghold of Tzar”.

Bishop Karapet, Materials Relating with an Armenian melikal Principality, Issue 2, The Dopians and the Melik-Shahnazarians, Echmiadzin, 1914, pp. 34, 84 (in Arm.).
"Colophons of the Armenian Manuscripts of the XIV cent", Yerevan, 1950, p. 84 (in Arm.).
Grigor Khlatetsi, Memorandum of the Disaster", Vagharshapat, 1897, p. 6.
"Small Chronicles", vol. 2, Yerevan, 1956, p. 275 (in Arm.).
Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 11.

16 c․

Even though since the end of the XVI cent, the region, Tzar and the whole Eastern Armenia, were under the Persian rule, the descendants of Jhanshe, son of Hassan Dopian preserved their title to principality (the rank of melik), which was legitimized anew by the edict of Shah Abbas announced in 1603. Thus the principality of Tzar survived till the early XVIII cent. This was a period of relative peace, when many old churches were renovated and new ones built, alongside with a variety of public structures, such as bridges, springs, etc., which date from this period.

A. Hovhannissian, The Guegham and Tzar Princely Dynasties, "Banber of the Armenian Scientific Institute", vol. 1 and 2, 1921-1922, pp. 105-113.
B. Ulubabian, The Principality of Khachen in the X-XVI cent", Yerevan, 1975 (in Arm.).
Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 11.

Outstanding Personalities

Names of the meliks - rulers of that region such as great prince Mirzajan (recorded in 1549, 1552), melik Balasan (1630), Jhangir Bek (1676), melik Mirzakhan (1684, 1701), Melik Bek (1717), etc. are mentionefl in a number of documents and epigraphic inscriptions.

M. Bishop Barkhutariants, Artsakh, Baku, 1895, p. 406 (here inafter - "Artsakh"), p. 275 (in Arm.).
"Ararat" periodical, 1914, p. 736 (in Arm.).
"Ararat", 1915, p. 791.
"Corpus Inscriptionem Armenicarum", Issue 3, compiled by S. Barkhudarian, Yerevan, 1973, p. 332 (in Arm.).
See the materials on this princely line also in Gh. Alishan, Sisakan, Venice, 1893, p. 37 (in Arm.).
Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, pp. 11-12.

Historical Introduction
18 c․

Beginning from the XVIII cent, the violent pressure of the Turkish tribes and heavy taxes imposed by Persian authorities caused more and more trouble to the population of the province and its princes.

The opinions of some researchers that Karvajar was emptied of Armenians in the beginning of the XVII cent during the enforced displacement organized by Shah Abbas are groundless (see e.g. H. Simonian, "Npatak" N 1, 1985, 1995, p. 1; G. Devrikian, "Handipum", 1995, N 9, p. 4-5; J. Tadevossian, "Azatamart", N49, 1993, p. 13 - in Arm.). The population of Tzar wasn't actu ally displaced in the beginning of the XVII cent, because it was far from the regulatory actions between Persia and Turkey. Moreover, many of the Armenians that avoided displacement found refuge in Tzar. "When spring came, this wise and pious prince Mister Melik Shahnazar, being aware of the hatred in the heart of the Omar nation, and ordered to the entire country: "Come and seclude in the fortresses, so that not to remain under the heel of the invaders", and he himself went to the fortresses of Tzar and Tpel. And whoever went with him, those avoided the intruders' sword and captivity" (Colophons of the Armenian Manuscripts of the TVII cent. vol. 1, Yerevan 1974, p. 218 (in Arm.). More details on this issue are provided in our "Intelligent" Armenians and the Crime not Committed by Shah Abbas", in "Hayk" daily, 1995, June 13, N 105, p. 7 (in Arm.).
Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 12.

17 c․

At the end of the XVII cent, the principality of Tzar dissolved within the neighboring principalities of Sodk and Jraberd.

Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 12.

18 c․

The second quarter of the XVIII cent, was the most troublesome, even dramatic for the homogenous Armenian population. This period was marked by the predatory campaigns of the Caucasian highlanders, particularly, Lezghians, which followed each other. On the other hand, Turkish and Kurdish nomads settling in the steppes between the rivers Kura and Arax, had set an eye on the heavy meadows of Karvajar. They arrived with their numerous flocks every other year as the summer began and occupied the alpine pastures of the whole region.

In regard of the devastating campaign of 1722 see: "Concise History of the Albanian Land composed by Yesayi Hassan-Jalaliants, Catholicos of Albania, Jerusalem, 1868, p. 37-38 (in Arm.).
Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 12.

18 c․

At the beginning of the XVIII cent, the Armenian meliks of Tzar following the meliks of Khamsa, prepared to fight for their independence. But in spite of special garrisons (sghnakh) formed in the province, the Armenian population was slowly but steadily leaving a village after a village. Unprecedented mass exodus of Armenian population began after 1724, when contrary to numerous promises given to the Armenians of Artsakh, the Russian Emperor Peter the Great, signed the Peace Accord with Turkey. Ensuring the security of the by-Caspian Russian territories, conquered from Persia, yet, this accord virtually permitted Turkey to dispose of Transcaucasia (up to Shamakhi). That very year the Ottomans deployed their troops in the region, firstly punishing the insurgent Armenians of Artsakh, who, anticipating the Russian support, dared to fight for their independence.

Beginning with that period the foreigners called this province "Colan".
"History of the Armenian People", vol. 4, Yerevan, 1972, p. 151 (in Arm.).
Ashot Hovhannissian, Petros di Sarkis Gilanents, Vagharshapat, 1916, p. 16 (in Arm.).
Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 12.

As the expatriation began, the lesser Armenian villages remained in Karvajar region, the heavier was the burden on those who stayed, thus accelerating the process.

Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 12.

1725 y․

In 1725 Grigor Vardapet (preceptor) was consecrated as catholicos in stead of his late brother, catholi-cos Yesayi. A decree announcing the election of the new catholicos to all the congregations, parishes, meliks and heads of Armenian settlements scolded the population to remain as loyal to the Holy See, as they had been before. It is worth mentioning that the villages of the Zaruzibilu (or Tzaray) province are listed in the decree alongside with the villages of Gandzak and Maghavuz. Thus we may state that the main exodus took place after 1725, and within the next two or three decades the whole region was almost totally emptied. Artsakh was in the same situation. Immigration unified all the estates. The meliks of Gulistan found refuge in the towns of Telavi (Kakheti, Georgia) and Bolnopor (Bolnisi, then entering into the province of Gugark). Armenian immigrants occurred also in Tbilisi and in a number of Kartli villages. And while the immigrants from Artsakh founded about a hundred villages in the Shaki and Shirvan provinces, then being under the Persian rule, the Armenian population of Tzar moved mostly to Georgia. In particular, it is commonly recognized that the Armenians of Chirkin village resettled in Tbilisi, those of Hanshagh - settled not far from Tbilisi, in the village Tabakhmelik (currently the village Tabakhmela, Gardabani Distr., Georgia), while the part of Khutavan population moved to Shulaveri, etc.

The State Central Historical Archive of the Republic of Armenia, Fund 57, List 1, Case 4, p. 1 (in Arm.).
The present-day district of Kashatagh (Lachin) was mostly referred to as Maghavuz in the XVII-XIX cent. Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p.12.

1760 y․

Except Khutavan and the monastery of St Dadi being the Episcopal See (Dadi Vank), by 1760 the area of Karvajar was almost totally abandoned by Armenians.

Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 12.

20 c․

Mesrop Magistros, travelling in Karvajar at the beginning of the XX cent, wrote: “Surrounded by countless Muslims, desperate of uneven struggle and deceived by the “Christian” Russian Tsar Peter, named “the Great”, the native Armenian population, moved to the vast steppes of that tsar, to the regions of Mozdok and Kizlar, leaving their fatherland deserted and uninhabited. The model of the XVIII cent, tragedy repeated on a much larger scale during the “Great War” in the major part of Armenia”.

Mesrop Magistros Archbishop Ter-Movsissian, Churches and Religious Structures of Three Large Armenian Monasteries: Tatev, Haghartsin and Dadi Vank..., Jerusalem, 1938, p. 84 (in Arm.).
Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 12.

18 c․

Since the second half of the XVIII cent, the waste highland was free for nomads, though during that period the latter were in constant movement. Particularly, in wintertime they left the vast highland meadows and descended to the steppes of Utik and Aran (Mooghan), for coming back again next summer as the snow melted.

Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 13.

The researches show that to the moment of penetration of nomadic tribes into the province, there still remained a few villages with Armenian population. This is also proved by toponyms, mostly calqued or distorted, as the Armenian toponyms were either modified to the phonetics of the nomads’ mother tongue, or simply translated. For instance such toponyms as: Yeritsushen (Keshishkand- Keshish- ‘a priest’ and kand - ‘a settlement’), Khndzorek - (Almalu- alma = ‘apple), Tsrtnot - Soyughbulagh (soyugh = tsurt -’cold’ and bulagh - ‘spring’), Apahen - Bashlibel (bash - ‘head, chief, main’ and hen < Arm. Henaran ‘support’ as bel - ‘back’ or ‘spine’), Yeznaratsants - as Chovdar (‘Livestock market, stockbreeder’), Sevajur -as Gharasu (ghara ‘black’ and su ‘water’) were calqued, while Mrjman - Marjumak, Tzar - Zar, Mos - Mozkand, etc. were distorted.

For more details on this issue see our article "Was the Province of Tzar Totally Deserted by the Moment of Penetration of the Nomadic Tribes" , in "AR" weekly, 1995, N 9, p. 5 (in Arm.).
Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 13.

1813 y․

Finally in 1813 the region was annexed to Russia. In 1868 it was included into the administrative district (uezd) of Jivanshir, which in its turn entered into the newly formed Yelizavetpol (Gandzak) province (guberniya).

Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 13.

1850 y․

Following the demand of the Russian authorities certain nomadic groups began though reluctantly to settle in some of the deserted villages, but the number of constantly occupied villages remained quite insignificant till 1850.

Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 13.

1920 y․

Meanwhile, the Armenians clergy of Artsakh, namely Archbishop Baghtasar, based on the legal deeds confirming the Title of Dadi Vank to its estates, started legal proceedings aimed to return the estates occupied by the nomads. It took years of immense efforts when finally the estate, almost equal to the half of the present Karvajar territory - 14 thousand desyati-nas (1 desyatina = 1.09 ha) of land, adjoining the eastern border of Martakert district of NKR, was returned to the disposal of the monastery. Dadi Vank was in possession of that huge estate and more or less disposed of its income up to the establishment of the Soviet rule. The situation changed dramatically with the establishment of the USSR and the Soviet Republic of Azerbaijan in 1920. Firstly, the land of Dadi Vank was nationalized and the monastery abandoned, secondly, the district of Karvajar was separated from Artsakh and included directly into Azerbaijan. Later, in 1923 a new administrative unit - Red Kurdistan was formed. After the liquidation of Kurdish autonomy in 1930, Karvajar was transformed into an ordinary administrative district within Soviet Azerbaijan. Thus, the historical province of Tzar or Upper Khachen was included into Azerbaijan as one of its 60 administrative districts - Kalbajar, with the rural centre in Kalbajar (distortion of the former Armenian toponym Karvajar). It became an urban type settlement since 1960, and in 1980 it acquired the status of a town.

As a matter of fact the Kalbajar district with the administrative center Kalbajar was established in 1930, consequently, it would be incorrect to assume that the province of Tzar, was also known as Karvajar since the XVII cent, (see A. Melkonian, "From the History of Kalbajar and Lachin" in "Haireniki Dzain", N 12, 1993, p. 6, or H. Simonian, the interview in "Noyatak", N 1, 1995, p. 1 -in Arm.).
The Soviet Azerbaijanian Encyclopaedia", vol. 5, Baku, 1981, p., 334 (in Azerb.).
Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 13.

1988 y․

With the beginning of Karabakh liberation movement in 1988 the Kalbajar district situated in the rear of the NKR, was turned to a military standpoint threatening to the sole existence of Artsakh.

Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 13.

1993 y․

Dadi Vank was liberated on March 31, 1993, and within a few days (on Apr. 3, 1993) the military actions ended by the liberation of the administrative centre.

Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p.13.

Owing to its natural isolation by high mountain ranges, Karvajar had been perceived as a separate district within the Artsakh province since at least early Middle Ages.

Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 13.

Early medieval sources name this region Vaykunik (Anania Shirakatsi, Movses Kaghankatvatsi), while the sources of later period use the toponym “the Land of Tzar” or the “province (gavar) of Tzar”. To denote the same province (see, e.g. the epigraphic inscriptions of Dadi Vank) the records of the XII-XIII cent, often used the toponym Upper Khachen alongside with Tzar. At the beginning of the XVII cent, the foreigners especially, more often called the Tzar or Upper Khachen province - Zaruzibil / Zaruzivil. This toponym occurred as a combination of names of the princely residence Tzar (pronounced by the Turks as Zar), and the neighboring village Zibil / Zivil (historical Armenian Zuar). During the Persian rule the latter as a separate administrative entity was subordinated to the beklerbek - the governor of Yerevan province. Since the middle of the XVIII cent, the present-day Karvajar was more often called Kolani district. The etymology of this toponym is apparently connected with the ethnonym of Koiani - one of the nomadic tribes that used to frequent the pastures of Karvajar. It should be added, that while foreign sources mention the district as Zaruzibil / Zaruzivil, Koiani, or Jvanshir, all the contemporary Armenian sources persistently use the ancient Armenian toponym Tzar.

The records of 1630 and 1725 are at hand ("Ararat", 1914, p. 736 and Historical Archive F. 57, L. 1, C. 4, p. 1 - in Arm.); There is a village of identical name in Sodk.
Leo, Armenian History, vol. 3, book 1, Yerevan, 1969, p. 56 (in Arm.).
"Jambr" Assembled and Rendered by Simeon Catholicos Yerevantsi, Vagharshapat, 1873, p. 283 (in Arm.).
See also our article in "Hayastani Hanrapetutyun, hereinafter "HH"), daily, 1995, Apr. 18, N 89, p. 2: "What is Finally Correct? (On the Toponym Karvajar)" (in Arm.).
Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, pp. 13-14.

Archaeological monuments discovered in the district, indicate that the region was inhabited since the most ancient times. This is proved, particularly, by natural caves in the gorge of the Trtu River accommodated for settling and rock carvings on comparatively smooth surfaces of basalt rock fragments on Ayichingil and Perichingil mounts, not far from Lake Zalkha. Stylistic peculiarities and execution technique, the composition and narratives of these rock-carvings resemble or are often similar to those found on the rocks of Vardenis or Syunik ranges, and may be dated accordingly by the IV-III Millennia BC.

Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 14.

18 c․

Preliminary investigation of numerous and versatile medieval monuments, particularly, the settlements, revealed about 140 small and large settlements, existing over the centuries up to the first quarter of the XVIII cent. Available monuments of different periods witness to the course of uninterrupted life during two millennia. It is also obvious, that before the thirties of the XVIII cent, the population of this province consisted mainly of Armenians. In any case, neither historical monuments, nor the available sources provide any data proving the presence of other ethnic minorities in the region till 1730.

Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 14.

Population
18 c․

Since the middle of the XVIII cent., when the nomadic tribes began to use the region as summer pastures, the ethnic Armenian population, unable to withstand the multi-faceted oppressions (especially kidnapping, capture and hijack) of the highlanders, Turks and nomads, intruding into the region every other year started to flee.

Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 14.

19 c․

An interesting episode of the mass exodus of Armenians, was told to Sarkis Kamalian by an elderly man called Guki in Haterk in 1892: “Why, Vardapet (preceptor), Khota Vank was a surprisingly well to-do and rich monastery, but it was devastated by the cursed Lezghians. Any time when they were short of bread or salt, they shamelessly ran to our grandfathers, stayed for months, demanded whatever they liked and tremendously enjoyed their life. Finally, to determine how to liberate themselves from the Lezghians, desperate Armenians convened a council of Armenian princes and elders and, to cut the long conversation short, priest Siptak, known to whole Jraberd said the following: the best thing we could do, would be to wake at night and cut the throats of Lezghian-dogs, sleeping at your homes, scare them well so that they won’t put a step to our land any more. Except for a few cowards, the majority kept to this order. But when the news of slaughtering the Lezghians reached Dagestan, countless Lezghians burst to Khota Vank, and people took their families and found refuge in safe nooks, but their houses and whatever was left were torched. Upon long inquiries the Lezghians learnt that the massacre was caused by the advice of priest (agh-keshish) Siptak. An evil man, given a bribe, agreed to show where priest Siptak was hiding - and he was at the winepress. The Lezghians dragged him out and darting furiously, crushed his head with stones and murdered him. When the Armenians heard the news of that horrible punishment, they took their sons and daughters, and fled to the other side. Many years have passed since then but our country had not a single peaceful day. There was a Holy Symbol (Surb Nshan) in Khota Vank, blessed be its might, and it is not visible any more, who knows where did they take it or where it had been lost”. Concluding the story told by Guki, S. Kamalian added: “Some offsprings of Jalaliants dynasty moved with a mass of people to Gueghama Sea (i.e. Lake Sevan), taking with them the Holy Symbol (Surb Nshari) of Khot and other relics”. Unable to get back to Khot by the reason of repeated destruction and constraints, the descendants of the Jalaleants princely line were roaming from place to place. Finally the relics were brought to the settlement of Shulaver, in Borchalu province of Georgia. In accordance to what I’ve heard (from the oldest representative of the Jalaliants family, Hekim Khecho, who is still alive and 86 years old) this happened at the beginning of the XIX century.. ,”.

I.e. Dadi Vank. S. Kamaliants, The Holy Symbol (Surb Nshan) of Khota Vank", Ardzagank", 1892, N III, p. 1-2 (in Arm.).
Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 14.

18 c․

Upon the Armenian exodus the access to the vast highland meadows was virtually open for the nomadic tribes. Since the middle of the XVIII cent, the nomads began to settle (at first only in summertime) in the territories emptied of Armenians, moving mostly into the abandoned Armenian villages. Actually, the aspiration of nomadic tribes to get hold of the region’s heavy meadows was supported and patronized by the khans of Shushi. It was politically relevant for the emerging Shushi principality to obtain the support of the Muslim settlers in those parts of the country, where such support could not be granted by the Christians. Penetrating by treason to the very core of the land of Khamsa, inhabited by Armenians, Panah Khan very soon guessed, that the rocks of Shushi were not a foundation solid enough for the establishment of power, and hurried to attract by various privileges the nomadic Turkish tribes from the lands of neighboring khans. Thus such Georgian nomadic tribes as Pyusian, Karacharly, Jinli, Damrchi-Hasanli, Ghzl-Hajili, Safi-Kyurd, Boy-Ahmedli, Sahatli, Kengerli, etc., occurred in Karvajar. Following his father, Ibrahim khan did not spare efforts to bring new Muslim residents from the outside. However the entrance of the nomads into the waste highland was not that easy. Particularly, Leo, quoting Hovsep Emin wrote that in the sixties of the XVIII cent, the latter had eye-witnessed an interesting incident: “At the road passing along Lake Sevan the Lezghians encountered a nomadic Kurdish tribe Kolani moving from the Ararat valley to the northern highland of Karabakh. These nomads were gathered by the efforts of Ibrahim Khan of Shushi. The Kolani Kurds had just been reaching the shores of Sevan, for passing the highland through the upper course of the Tartar when the Lezghians attacked. The cruel and bloody combat ended with the Lezghian victory. Emin, who had been the eye-witness of the battle, told that the Lezghians took 814 Kurdish captives, 8000 heads of sheep, 2000 heads of cattle and 600 - mares. The booty costed 12,000 tumans."

Besides the area of Karvajar, the aborigine Armenian population left also the present day Kashatagh, Ghubatli, Zangelan, Jabrail, Karhat and Khanlar (the southern parts of the two latter districts), Getabek and Touz, alongside with the eastern shore of the lake Sevan, the valley of Getik and other areas during 1730-1750.
Leo, Ibid., vol. 3, book 2, Yerevan, 1973, p. 303 (in Arm.);
See also The life and Adventures of Joseph Emin, London, 1792, p. 372;
Corpus (Collection) of Armenian History, vol. 4, Tiflis, 1894, p. 494 (in Arm.).
Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, pp. 14-15.

In the course of time, the Kolanis, as well as other Kurdish and Turkish nomads did enter the deserted highland, though at first, not as constant settlers. This is how the contemporary characterized the Kolani tribe: “Kolani is a Turkish tribe, which does the same in Jivanshir, as the Kurdish cut-throats and hijackers in the Turkish part of Armenia. They have cruel outlook, bloodthirsty eyes, a gun on the shoulder, a dagger on the waist... Kolani are not hand to hand fighters... Being dissatisfied with the loot taken from the peasants, Kolanis sometimes attack monasteries, kill the monks (for instance the superior of Yeghishe Arakeal) and rob the monastery...”. The German horse-breeder Wilmann was also the victim of that tribe. Thus, for many long decades (about 80-90 years) the region had no settled population.

"Meghu Hayastani", 1885, N 65, p. 3 (in Arm).
Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 15.

1830 y․

When by 1830 Archbishop Baghdassar Hasan-Jalalian trying as hard as he could, finally won the case and the Court action confirmed the legitimacy of Dadi Vank claims and established the borders of estates, many of the nomadic tribes had already been residing there (though not constantly). As a result of Court proceedings, the tribes settling within the boundaries of the estate were obliged to pay tribute to the monastery. In. spite of the skepticism, of many contemporaries who considered Archbishop’s efforts to return the estates vain and futile, the latter managed to achieve his purpose and Dadi Vank began to collect its annual rent from the nomads settling on almost 14,000 desjatinas of land. Unfortunately, after his death (in 1854) his successors failed to preserve what had been obtained, and little by little parts of the estate passed to the Muslim beks (Khurshid, daughter of Mehtidoli Khan, Davut agha Aghalarov, etc.). By 1895 the number of Turkish ghshlaghs (villages) exceeded 22 (150 households).

"Taraz", 1913, N 7-8, p. 91 (in Arm.).
Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 15.

1870 y․

Closer to 1870 the Tsarist Government intended to displace the tribes reported as hijackers: “At the time of the former Viceroy already, it was ordered to expel the Kolani tribe outside the Russian borders, but they didn’t succeed, and it seems, they would never succeed, as the displacement of an entire community by force is really a hard task.. .” As a matter of fact income of the monastery was constantly falling until 1910. Meanwhile, the situation was desperate and had to be improved whatever the circumstances were, and Levon Ter-Avetikian, former resident of Tbilisi, the nominated manager of the monastery estate, set to it. Having consulted with his lawyer and getting the requisite advice in 1813, (which particularly reads: “the consistory permitted the residents of Ayrum to use the estate in agricultural purposes, i.e. under the condition of paying a certain fee (tribute) for the use of land and meadows... The use of Khotavan estates by the residents of Ayrum shall be deemed a temporary lease. Pursuant to the law the maximum term of lease shall not exceed 12 years. If we consider that the certificate issued by the Consistory is a Lease Agreement, then, in conformity with the law the term has expired in 1896, because, pursuant to the law, there are no such agreements without time limitation, and because the residents of Ayrum had been continuously using the land after the aforementioned date, and duly paying the rent for usage, we should assume that the Consitory had been prolonging or renewing the agreement by default, each time for one year term up to now. Under these conditions the Consistory may begin the Court proceedings against the Turks any time whenever it pleases, and expel them from the estate...”), he displaced some of the Muslims from the estate. By July 1914 Ter-Avetikian wrote: “I report to the Holy Synod, that after hard efforts and with extreme difficulty this year, we succeeded in taking the following summer pastures of Khotavank back from the Kurds and residents of Ayrum: Duz-Yurt, Haji-Daylu, Gamu-Yurt, Aghdash, Arpa-Tala, Behbut-Ali-Yurt, Ahmadkhan Yurt, and letting them on lease to other lessees, but it is just a small portion against the total...” On March 31, 1915 owing to the efforts of the same manager and the order of the Viceroy 11 other summer pastures were taken back from the nomads and returned to the monastery, later the pastures were let on lease to the Turks under new lease contracts for the rent of 2250 rubles.

"Meghu Hayastani", 1885, N 65, p. 3 (in Arm).
See the Chapter "Dadi Vank" hereunder. SCHARA, F. 56, L. 18, C. 968, p. 1, 9, 22 (in Arm.); Meeting the violent resistance of the nomads, the manager applied other methods. One of them was to expel the Turks by means of other Turkish lessees (in 1914 the summer pastures of Beybut-Ali Yurt were let on lease to 4 Turkish residents of the Khanlarvand village of the Gandzak province), which however yielded no results, because the Ayrum Turks resisted to them, too (SCHARA, F. 56, L. 1, C. 1127, p. 4 - in Arm.); see also our article: "the Liberation of Karvajar Started in 1913" in "HH", 1995, March 13, N 52, p. 2 (in Arm.).
Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, pp. 15-16.

1850 — 1865 yy․

A number of documents testify that the first settled tribes occurred in the region after 1850 only, choosing the old villages abandoned by Armenians for their constant settlement. It is recognized that in 1861 the population of the whole region consisted of about 100 households of “Alianlu barbarian Kolanis” residing in 14 small villages. In accordance with another census made in 1865, which seems more reliable and accurate, there were 9 new villages in the region, consisting of 102 households.

"Nor Dar", daily, 1885, N 104, p. 4 (in Arm.).
"Ararat" monthly, 1910, Apr., p. 58 (in Arm.).
Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 16.

Occupation

“... Before 1884-87 they (i.e. the Turkish and Kurdish tribes, S. K.) were mostly occupied with the trade inherited from their ancestors - brigandage. Recent.ly, when their vandalism drew the attention of the Government and they were forced by different means to drop that occupation, they engaged in agriculture, but Allah only knows what agriculture. They were occupied only with stockbreeding, although not quite in the proper sense of the term...”

"Nor Dar", 1892, N 15, p. 2 (in Arm.).
Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 16.

Armenian-Turkish Fights of 1905 to 1906
1905 — 1906 yy․

During the Armenian-Turkish conflict of 1905-06 no manager risked to enter the desolate monastery estates lorded by Turks and Kurds. Dadi-Vank lost all its income then, it was reported that “during the conflict the Turks and Kurds intended to burn the woods, but they were stopped. Nevertheless they managed to cut the trees, the estimated loss constituted about 50,000 rubles, and the fallen trees were left in the forest. . .”. In 1906 50 Kurdish riders armed with the guns of the latest model and led by Askarkhan, head of the Kolani band made attempts to attack such large Armenian villages as Haterk and Vank.

SCHARA F. 57, L. 2, C. 1851, p. 2-3 (in Arm.).
"Mshak", 1906, N 70, March 31, p. 1 (in Arm.).
Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 16.

Historical Introduction
1890 y․

The situation of Dadi Vank itself was also desperate. By 1890 it was totally abandoned both by the monks and the superior. Numerous monastery structures were left to the disposal of a Kolani Seid-molla and his herds, later expelled by Bakhish Bek, owner of the Armenian village Metzshen.

"Nor Dar", 1890, N 158, p. 3-4 (in Arm.).
Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 16.

Population

As a matter of fact the anarchy incidental to the Armenian-Turkish conflict - created conditions exceptionally favorable for the further penetration of the nomadic tribes into the region. New kishlaks were founded just at that period. The number of settled villages in 1910 reached 40, and the number of households reached 1000.

"Ararat" monthly, 1910, Apr., p. 58.
Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 16.

1911 y․

During the trip undertaken in 1911 for the purpose of inspecting the conditions at the estate, Archbishop Mesrop stated, that the number of newly settled families has reached 200. “The vast area of the estate was occupied by about 200 Kurdish households, small families leading pastoral life with their herds”. Archbishop further mentioned the number of new households in certain villages. For instance: the village Chapni: “Passing forward by the course of the river Lev we reached a deserted village. Ruins of 12 water mills in the vicinity witnessed to the fact that the village was once densely populated. Now this very place was inhabited merely by one large Ayrum family, with numerous herds and flocks, which, taking advantage of the devastation in the environment behaved like medieval princes, profiting from the estate more than its real owners - the Armenian clergy of Karabakh or the Holy See of Echmiadzin”. During the same period of 1911 three shepherd families settled in the village Keshishkend, situated nearby.

Mesrop Magistros Archbishop Ter-Movsisian, Churches and Religious Structures of Three Large Armenia Monasteries: Tatev, Haghartzin and Dadi Vank…, Jerusalem, 1970, p. 84, 93; The record of 1913 contains the accurate account, which indicates that the resident of Chapni, head of the village Hassan Kerbala AH oghli, of the Ayrum descent., had 2000 heads of cattle (Histor. Archive, F. 56, L. 18, C. 968, p. 13 - in Arm.).
Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 16.

1930 y․

The final shift of nomadic tribes to the settled life was completed only in the Soviet period (before the thirties of the XX cent.)

Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 16.

1930 y․

Immediately after the liquidation of Red Kurdistan (1930) the authorities of Azerbaijan commenced the transfer of the Turkish population of other regions into the area of Karvajar, which was still thinly populated. For this purpose part of the local Kurdish population was deported to remote regions of Azerbaijan. As a result, the remaining population was completed with the Turkish ethnic element, which led to the total assimilation of the Kurds living in the region. As for the Kurds, those who still remained occurred under conditions, which fostered their rapid assimilation and loss of national identity and customs. It deserves mentioning that the Musavat Government began the struggle against the local Kurdish population in 1918-1920 already. Such national policy was further adopted and promoted by Soviet Azerbaijan during the entire period of Soviet rule. If at the beginning of the Soviet period such villages as Zaylik, Aghjakand, Shurtan, Orujlu, Khalanli, Soyughbulagh, etc. were inhabited by the Kurds only, to the end of the twenties only 11 Kurdish villages remained in Karvajar.

Garnik Asatrian and Nikolay Gevorgian, Azerbaijan, Principle of Occupation and the Iranian World, Yerevan, 1990, p. 19 (in Arm.).
A. Bukshpan, The Azerbaijanian Kurds, Baku, 1932, p. 34-36,61, 72 (in Russian).
Ashot Melkonian, From the History of Kalvajar and Lachin, "Hayreniki Dzayn", 1993, N 12, p. 6 (in Arm.).
Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, pp. 16-17.

20 c․

However, between 1918-1960 the population of the region was still rather sparse. Intensive growth of the population began before 1980, when the average density of the population reached 21 people per 1 sq. km, and the whole region had in aggregate 40,300 inhabitants living in 122 villages and two towns. Besides, the census indicated to the homogenous Azerbaijanian population, as the Kurds were almost totally assimilated by that time. Up to 1988 the population of the region was still increasing (maximum 42,000 people), but it decreased sharply, before the events of 1993.

Soviet Azerbaijanian Encyclopaedia, vol. 5, Baku, 1981, p. 334 (in Azerb.).
Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 17.

1993 y․

Finally, in April 1993 the huge wave of Artsakh liberation movement reached Karvajar. Concluding this chapter we should state that the Azerbaijanian and Kurdish population penetrated into this region at least 250 years ago and passed to semi-settled mode of life during the past 130 or 140 years, finally settling under the Soviet rule.

Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 17.

Geographical Environment

SETTLEMENTS
Owing to the natural conditions of the highland the overwhelming majority of the medieval settlements were situated in the valleys of major rivers or their tributaries. Settlements situated in higher elevations of the mountains and difficult to reach served mostly for defense purposes. While choosing the place for such a settlement or fortress the availability of water should certainly be taken into account. This may be exemplified by the princely town of Tzar, situated on the plateau at the altitude of 2050 m above the sea, over 300 m higher that the Trtu river (1730) passing through the gorge below.

Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 17.

Construction Activity

SETTLEMENTS
The constructive peculiarities of Karvajar villages are sharply divergent. Pursuant to these peculiarities they may be subdivided to two main groups. The first one is comprised of the former Armenian villages resettled by the nomads who simply adapted to the existing accommodations. Such villages preserve the peculiarities of the former planning and stand out for their compactness, density of structures, and quite discernible though sometimes a little curvy streets. The placement of houses is scrupulously selected - they are never built on the fertile soil, but on the mother bed only. Contrary to it, the Turkish villages built during the Soviet period have no regular planning, the houses are scattered, and a village consisting of 20-25 households may occupy the area of 1.0-1.5 sq. km, any streets or roads connecting one village to another are totally missing. Large cattle-sheds and byres surround each village spring. The planning peculiarities are so obvious, that an expert eye may instantly detect whether the village was founded by Azerbaijanians or inherited from the aborigines.

Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 17.

Historical Introduction

SETTLEMENTS
Unfortunately, not all the former Armenian toponyms have been preserved. There are no such detailed historical records, which would describe the district as for example, the Chronicle of Stephanos Orbelian for the regions of Syunik, listing the entire villages name by name in his Annex. To fill this gap, to the possible extent, we have assembled the data yielded by the chronicles, records and epigraphic material, which contain any references to the villages, settlements, or meadows in the region. Comparative and etymological study of the toponyms recorded since the 12th and until the XVIII cent, enabled us to reconstruct the historical names of certain villages, and trace their later distortions, renaming or calqueing. Beginning from the thirties of the XVIII cent, the majority of former Armenian settlements were renamed. By that reason most of the ancient toponyms were either forgotten or replaced by foreign ones, and only a few of such historical toponyms as Lev or Mos have survived. In the best case the toponyms were either calqued, or distorted.

Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 17.

Description
12 — 18 cc․

SETTLEMENTS
Besides, the sources contain a number of toponyms (mostly settlements), the location of which is still obscure. Although it is difficult to mark them on the map with any accuracy, we may take for certain that all of these toponyms should be the historical Armenian counterparts of the later Turkish names. Location of the settlements presented by such toponyms as Havar, Grigoratagh, Berdakar, Tzovategh, Tzaghikants, Krapashtots, Sokhanants, Jajorants, Petrosabak, Cholbekiants, Voghnov, Dzguniants Agarak, Arakhish (Rakhish), Dashtak, Mardaghuneants Surb Nshan, Tzraget Anapat, Gumer, Kazh, Anukhs, Hajar, Jumen, Karatak, Khrants, Motants, Pokr Davachkhur, Khozenek and Khozenakuts Metz Aygi, Mananadzor, etc. remains obscure.

We assume that Tzaghikants is the present-day Chichakli Mount (literally calqued from Armenian).
Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 17.

Historical Introduction

SETTLEMENTS
Some of the villages and monasteries of Karvajar (such as Dadi Vank, Getamijo Vank, Tsraget Anapat (Desert), Apahen (or Tpel or Turk. Bashlibel), Arakhish (or Rakhish, location uncertain), Dashtak (location uncertain), Mos (currently Mozkand) and Karvajar) had been famous centers of medieval literature.

Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 18.

Description

SETTLEMENTS
In conformity with the official information published before 1993 there had been 122 settlements in Karvajar. With the exception of a few large villages (e.g. Zar, Zlpgharli, Zaylik, Ghlchli, Bashlibel) with up to 200 households each, the number of households in the majority of villages varied from 30 to 60. There was also quite a number of minor settlements consisting of 10 households (e.g. Alchali, Ghushyuvasi, Otakhlar, Sariguney, Otghshlagh, Ghazikhanli, Ghalafalgh, Ghalaboyun, etc). Actually a dense net of small villages, standing at the distance of 3 - 3.5 km of each other covered the whole vast region. It should be noted that small villages contained more cattle-sheds than houses.

Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 18.

1960 y․

SETTLEMENTS
Over 20 villages were established after 1960. Other villages, and the regional centre expanded rather rapidly (in comparison with the Master Plan of 1952, in 1972 the town was 4 times larger) though its population increased to 10 times.

See S. Karapetian, How did They Occupy the Armenian Territories (Exemplified by the Town of Karvajar), "Azatamart", 1994, N 40, p. 13 (in Arm.).
Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 18.

Research Materials

INVESTIGATION OF HISTORICAL MONUMENTS BEFORE 1920.
The history of investigations of the medieval landmarks of Karvajar is not particularly rich with events. The first to investigate the most significant monasteries (Dadi Vank and Getamijo or Tzara Vank), copy and publish some of their inscriptions was Bishop Hovhannes, in 1830. Approximately at the same time Sargis Vardapet (preceptor - later Archbishop) Jalaliants published the results of his expedition to the ancient settlements of Karvajar. In 1985 Yeghishe priest Geghamiants (Haykuni) published a study containing mainly descriptive material. In 1891 Khachik Vardapet (preceptor) Dadian (then deacon Vahan), whose valuable work is not yet published to now investigated the epigraphic records of Dadi Vank. As far as we are informed there were no further researches in this field till 1895 when Bishop Makar published his unique research. Fortunately the bishop managed to get to Tzar. It was a real success, because numerous epigraphic inscriptions scattered throughout that princely residence and lost during the years of Soviet rule, were copied and published by the bishop for the first and only time. However, the bishop’s trip to other ancient sites was unexpectedly interrupted and other chapters of his research were limited to the description of newly established Azerbaijanian villages. Finally, Mesrop Magistros, who visited the estates of Dadi Vank in 1911, provided a detailed survey of villages and historical monuments on his way (alongside with the copies of a number of inscriptions). Provided for an insignificant number of brief reports, that was the last fundamental research of the pre-Soviet period.

Hovhannes Bishop Shahriatsi's - Signatures of the Catholicos of Echmiadzin and five Ararat Provinces, vol. 2, Echmiadzin, 1842, p. 356-365 (in Arm.).
Sarkis Vardapet Jalaliants, Trip to Great Armenia, part 1, Tiflis, 1842, p. 199-227 (in Arm.).
"Meghu Hayastani", 1885, N 65, 78, 80 (in Arm.).
SCHARA F. 319, L. 1, C. 5, p. 23-28 (in Arm.).
M. Barkhutariants, Artsakh, Baku, 1895, p. 406.
Mesrop Magistros Archbishop Ter-Movsisian, Churches and Religious Structures of Three Large Armenia Monasteries: Tatev, Haghartzin and Dadi Vank…, Jerusalem, 1970, p. 84.
"Ardzagank", 1886, N 44, p. 577-578.
"Nor Dar", 1890, N 158, p. 3-4; Ibid., 1891, N 123; Ibid., 1892, N 15, p. 2.
"Ararat", 1896, Jan. p. 42-43, etc. (in Arm.).
Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, pp. 18-19.

1940 y․

INVESTIGATIONS OF THE SOVIET PERIOD.
During the first 40 years of the Soviet rule, up to 1960 there were almost no researches in this field, except the book of Russian archeologist Pchyolina, “Armenian Monuments in the Territory of Soviet Azerbaijan” that included also some of Karvajar monuments. It seems, in this regard, that the quotation from the travel notes of the Russian investigator deserves some interest: “Numerous caves fit for residence, ruins of villages, fortress walls, chapels and churches were the witnesses of the lively past, in this almost uninhabited highland. Unfortunately, the overwhelming majority of these monuments is not only uninvestigated, but also not mentioned in the literature, even though for inventory purposes. The only testimony of once dense Armenian population of the past are vast cemeteries round half ruined churches, or standing apart of them”.

Pchyolina E. G., The Armenian Landmarks in the Territory of Azerbaijanian SSR, Acts of the Oriental Dept. of Hermitage, vol. 30, Leningrad, 1940, p. 92-243 (in Russian).
Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 19.

1960 — 1964 yy․

INVESTIGATIONS OF THE SOVIET PERIOD.
Finally, after the pause of several decades, the historical monuments of Karvajar were highlighted once more by the epigraphic expedition of S. Barkhudarian, undertaken in 1960-1964. The expedition pursued mainly epigraphic purposes, i. e. discovery and deciphering of Armenian inscriptions. Unfortunately it limited itself to visiting the sites which had already been studied in the past. In spite of it the expedition discovered 35 additional inscriptions ( + to 72 inscriptions published before) thus fully completing the assemblage of epigraphic material partially published by former investigators and bringing the total number of epigraphic inscriptions assembled within the region to 107 pieces. These inscriptions were published with a considerable delay, in 1982 only (due to the death of Prof. S. Barkhudarian in 1970) under the auspices of the Institute of Archeology and Ethnography of the NAS of Armenia. Several articles relating Dadi Vank were published during the seventies and eighties. The first of Dadi Vank investigators to make the measurement of the monastery complex was architect M. Hasratian. His materials have been widely used in the works by Sh. Musheghian.

"Corpus", Issue 5, compiled by S. Barkhudarian, Yerevan, 1982, pp. 197-227.
B. Ulubabian, Dadi or Khuta Vank, Echmiadzin, 1971, N 6-7.
M. Hasratian, Dadi Vank, "Gitutyun ev Technika", 1981, N 9 (in Arm.).
Sh. Mkrtchian, Historical Architectural Landmarks of the Mountaneous Gharabagh, Yerevan, 1980, p. 34; the second publication of the same, Yerevan, 1985 (in Arm.), p. 38-46; the same in Russ. - pp. 34-39.
Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 19.

1979 y․

RESEARCHES CONDUCTED IN KARVAJAR DURING 1979-1987.
Since 1979, when I was provided the first opportunity to visit Karvajar, and round the following 9 years, I had been investigating the historical landmarks of the “land of Tzar” (making measurements, taking photos, copying epigraphic inscriptions and mapping). Thus the complexes in Handaberd and Chapni (half-ruined church of the latter served as a residential apartment for some Amiraslan Mamedov), the southern part of Ghamishli, the pylon of a single-span bridge over the Lev (1980), which had fallen a victim of floods, Surb Astvatzatzin (Holy Virgin) monastery, situated on the right bank of the river Trtu, the church of Yeritsushen, khachkars, etc. were studied and mapped. It should be mentioned that the researchers from Baku started their investigation of the region after 1980. Such researches resulted in misrepresentation and labeling of a number of Armenian historical landmarks as “Albanian”. Dadi Vank, Surb Astvatzatzin Monastery, the church of Kilisa and other Armenian architectural monuments were represented as the cultural heritage of their Christian ancestors. Armenian visitors were strictly prohibited (sure, by the instruction of Baku) to take photos in Handaberd and Dadi Vank. The main responsibility of the supervisors serving at those monuments was to observe that no stranger could take any photos. To avoid further complications of the fieldwork, difficult in itself, we abstained from publishing these materials over the entire period. The situation changed only in 1988.

Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 19.

1988 y․

INVESTIGATIONS AFTER 1988.
Since 1988 the further continuation of field works has become altogether impossible. On the other hand it was a time demand to consider the works of Azerbaijanian scientists, and reveal their falsification, . moreover that it was on the peak of Karabakh Liberation Movement. Thus in 1989 we published an article in co-authorship with V. Harutyunian on the occasion of T. Abdullayev’s work, containing the detailed investigation of Surb Astvatzatzin monastery. Later we published several other articles. Unfortunately, before the liberation of the region by Armenians (1989-1992) numerous epigraph-ic inscriptions on a number of churches were fully demolished by Azerbaijanians (particularly, they erased about ten inscriptions of Surb Astvatzatzin Monastery of the XII-XIII cent, containing valuable historical information, and crashed finely carved inscribed khachkars).

V. A. Harutyunian, S. G. Karapetian, N. M. Sarkissian, The Holy Virgin (Surb Astvatstzin) Monastery Complex in the province of Tzar, Lraber, 1989, N 7, p. 82-92 (in Arm.).
S. Karapetian, The Estate of Dadi (Khuta) Vank, "Azatamart" weekly, 1992, N 15, p. 14 (in Arm.); Armenian Historical Monuments of Kalbajar of the same author, Azatamart, 1992, N 22, p. 14 (in Arm.). The same in Russian, Azatamart, 1992, N 7.
Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, pp. 19-20.

1993 — 1996 yy․

INVESTIGATIONS UNDER THE AUSPICES OF RAA DURING 1979-1987.
Liberation of the historical “land of Tzar” in April 1993 provided an unprecedented opportunity for free continuation of interrupted works. Further researches were resumed under the auspices of Research on Armenian Architecture (RAA) organization, to which I am extremely grateful for funding and moral support. Works related to the discovery and investigation of the monuments were resumed in the beginning of June 1993. Regular scientific expeditions explored almost every village, settlement and site of the highland till November 1996. During that period we discovered a number of yet unknown sites and investigated the old sites anew. Unfortunately, as we revealed on the spot, the former investigators left numerous drawbacks, beginning with the most important - copying and reading of the total epigraphic material and ending with mapping and measurement of architectural monuments. By necessity, we had to implement these works anew from the “zero point”, as it was much easier to carry the work again than to engage in making numerous corrections and amendments. Undeciphered pieces of epigraphic left out by the expedition of 1960-1964, as well as newly discovered inscriptions made on the inner plastering were read. As a result of 4 years work the number of discovered and registered historical monuments of Karvajar reached 518 units, but this figure may still be incomplete, as it is not excluded that we could have left some monuments out of sight. However the material collected is quite sufficient to provide the comprehensive description of the cultural heritage of the historical “land of Tzar”, which had been the integral and relevant part of Armenia both by its architecture, and history. Alongside with the research of Armenian historical landmarks we investigated and registered the Kurdish and Azerbaijanian monuments of the XIX-XX cent. The latter are represented mainly by tombstones, or sepulchers (kyumbaz), included horse-shaped or ram-shaped tombstones, characteristic of the Kurdish burial tradition. The oldest of them dates back to 1870. By clear reasons the Moslem mosques are virtually missing in Karvajar: before the establishment of the Soviet Union the villages were semi-settled, and had no constant population, which would require mosques. Later any religious practice was prohibited under the Soviet law. The only mosque founded in 1990 (in the Southern side of the Zlpgharli village) was left incomplete. Dome-shaped sepulchers called kyumbaz (the oldest were built 110-120 years ago) are still standing in Mos, Aghyatagh, Damrchidam, Susuzlugh, etc., while animal shaped tombstones occur mostly in the cemeteries of the town of Karvajar, Tzar and other villages. During the Soviet period they used to build more kyumbaz-type tombs.

Efendiev Rasim Samed Oghli, The Stones Speak, Baku, 1980 (in Azerb.).
S. Karapetian, History of the Only Mosque in Karvajar, "Azatamart", 1994, N 47 (192), p. 13 (in Arm.).
Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 20.

Description

To the east and southeast of Handaberd, in the valley of the River Lev or on the slopes of its gorge there are traces of ancient settlements, later (in the XIX or XX cent.) reinhabited by Kurdish or Turkish tribes. These are the current Ghanlikand (as translated ‘Blood village), Elyasalilar or Ella Zallar, Maraldam, Babashlar, Takyadam or Takyaghaya and Bozlu. All of these villages, particularly, Bozlu, where double crosses were carved on the surface of the rock buried in the centre of the village, have preserved the traces of earlier Armenian presence. Judging from the execution technique and stylistic peculiarities these crosses date back to the XII or XIII cent.

Samvel Karapetian, Armenian Cultural Monuments in the Region of Karabakh, Yerevan, 2001, p. 25.

Southern slopes of the Mrav mountain range and the Lev River gorge seen from Handaberd Type Photo
View Partial view
Author Samvel Karapetyan

Watershed in the upper course of the Trtu (Tartar) and Dutkhu Rivers Type Photo
Author Samvel Karapetyan

Lake Gortagarak on the southern slope of Mrav mountain range Type Photo
Author Samvel Karapetyan

Type Photo
Author Samvel Karapetyan

Name	Year/Century	Etymology
Tzar
Kolani
Kyalbajar
Vaykunik
Verin Khachen	12 — 13 cc․
Zaruzibil
Zaruzivil
Jvanshir